Sotto lo sguardo di Virgilio cercando il cuore della città


MANTOVA “Frotte di turisti e mantovani in Piazza Virgiliana tra mercatini delle feste e l’immancabile vin brûlé”. Eccolo il titolo, ben esteso e un po’tradizionale, di una possibile notizia di cronaca sulla distesa di gente che ha affollato la piazza del Grande Poeta. Chissà come sono veramente le “frotte di turisti”? Che forma hanno le frotte? Lunghe e strette o larghe e spesse? Mi ha sempre intrigato il termine “frotte” anche perché dicendolo in giro poteva essere frainteso con le “flotte” e capivi dallo sguardo verso il cielo l’estenuante ricerca mentale dell’esatta attribuzione semantica.

Ma torniamo al cielo di piazza Virgiliana, grigio ma festoso. Eccoli: sparuti passanti all’ora del pranzo nella zona delle casette di legno tra ricordini e tessuti, alimentari da asporto e candele molto ma molto profumate anche da spente. Eccoli: astanti molto astanti e molto assiepati, sotto l’ora del desinare, davanti alle casette fatte a bancarelle dei cibi e delle bevande, delle minestre e dei panini, eh c’è anche il panino al cotechino, come quello delle Grazie di Ferragosto.

Meno male che non è Ferragosto di questi tempi, e il panino al cotechino sembra quasi più adatto al clima e all’atmosfera. Panino fumante con un fetta spessa di cotechino a colore fiammeggiante. Mh, che fame!  Pazienza, per noi non è ancora ora. Passeggia con eleganza un giovane coppia con passeggino blu al centro.  Ehi ciao! Ciao, come stai? Che bello vedervi a Mantova! Giovani colleghi di mestiere di azienda. Con bambina di pochi mesi che sgrana gli occhioni verso il cielo. Passeggia una coppia anziana tenendosi vicendevolmente sorretti al passo che non è, per forza di cose, più lungo della gamba. Passeggiano due signore che commentano le qualità della tovaglia ricamata appena comprata.

C’è vita sotto lo sguardo di Virgilio, che ora si allontana. No dai, siamo noi che ci allontaniamo da lui. Atmosfera sospesa al rintocco dell’ora in cui tutti sono in casa o al ristorante “con le gambe sotto la tavola”, come si dice da queste parti, e non solo da queste. Due ore dopo la piazza ha un’altra faccia, sono tutti lì. A camminare e a cercar di digerire.

Altro che frotte, queste sono folle. E continua ad arrivare gente dalla via che scende da Piazza Sordello, dall’apertura delle mura del Lungolago dove non c’è più un posto per parcheggiare, e la coda di auto a passo d’uomo si fa lunga, c’è chi dice che vada dalla rotonda di Porta Mulina alla rotonda del Castello. Accidenti che fardello!

“Ma si paga oggi il parcheggio?”, domanda un signore dall’accento spiccatamente veneto. Risponde uno del posto: “Qui si paga, c’è scritto sul cartello tutti i giorni”.  Più giù verso Mulina ci sono invece i segni dei giorni feriali. “Zè complicà”, dice il turista veneto. Scusi, ma da dove viene? “Da Rovigo, esattamente da Porto Viro!”, sentenzia con orgoglio il turista, prendendo sottobraccio la moglie. “Accipicchia!”, sussurra l’autoctono virgiliano.

Lo sguardo di una signora che passa nel frattempo è più che trasparente: sta cercando nella mente la cartina geografica appesa…



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